Friday 25 May 2012

France - Aquitaine and Basque Region


Dunas de Pyla

Dunas de pyla

France St Jean De Luz (day 194)
  Arriving in St Jean, we weren’t sure about the camping aire as it was sandwiched between a main railway line and a busy road, but it ended up being a very good place to visit with a busy town square and sandy long beach.   Everybody had descended upon the town because of the long weekend and V.E. Day which is a national holiday in France. We had a stroll along the promenade and were staring at the ice cream stalls - at the ices and the prices, “ouch! we are in France; 4€ for a cone “ .  We went back to the van to make a meal and sit and watch the sudden downpour of rain, luckily we had just missed, I hope this isn’t going to be a trend in France.


Biarritz Harbour

Biarritz (day 195)
  We arrived in Biarritz on V.E. day, apparently Biarritz was the place to be seen in, in the 20s & 30s. It still has an exclusive feel to it, the town was busy with tourists mostly French making the most of the warm weather & the day off.  You can clearly see the original part of Biarritz with its walled marina to protect it from the full force of the Atlantic, I can’t help wondering what it looked like with German E-boats moored up during the war.  Back from the marina are the old fisherman’s cottages and then to the side the town square dominated by the church. There are lots of restaurants’ with their tables & chairs taking up a good proportion of the old square.

The Portuguese Immigrants Procession
Ondres, Capbreton, Vieux Bourcau, Mimizan, Gastes & Ste Eulalie-en-born. (day 196-202)
  The next few days we travelled up the coast through the national park area of Des Landes De Gascogne, stopping at various places beach resorts along the way.  We decided to travel towards one of the many lakes in the area and stumbled across a little place called Sante Eulalie-en-Born, which had an Aire on lake Biscarrosse et de Parentis.   We stayed for 4 days, the weather was exceptional at times reaching temps of 38ᵒ.   At the camp spot we met up again with our travelling friends, Mick & Sharron, we indulge in some local wine and a great cider from Normandy. Mick & Sharron cooked us a great Sunday lunch; al fresco, while we caught up on each other’s travels over the previous 6 months.  On the Sunday there were parades and celebrations, for the Portuguese immigrants, who made there way over to France in the 70's.
The bunkers on Ondres Beach

The Aire at Ste Eulalie de Borne


After leaving the lake, we visited Dunas de Pyla, (as suggested by Loz) the largest sand dune in Europe.  We climbed to the top and walked along the ridge of the dune, it was quite impressive.  The only problem was that when we got to the top and started to take some pictures we realised that we (Si) hadn't put the memory stick back in the camera and there was no way I was climbing back down again! - so thanks to Mick and Sharon for supplying us with pictures. The dune has a volume of about 60,000,000 m³, measuring around 500 m wide from east to west and 2.7 km in length from north to south. Its height is 108 metres above sea level.
It was a long way up


Andernos le Bains (day 202 -205)
Round the corner from the Dune is Arcachon Basin, known for is famous Oysters, we stayed at an aire in Andrenos les Bains.  It was by the side of the harbour, amongst the fisher mans huts, many have now been made into restaurants.  We cycled around the pretty tourist town and along the many cycles routes in the surrounding area.  Before living we went for a meal, a belated birthday celebration, we didn't fancy the oysters, opted for the mussels and fish platter instead.

One of the lovely fish restaurants on the harbour
Pier at Andernos

Si enjoying his fish lunch

Friday 27 April 2012

Back into Spain - Travelling to the north





Up on a Mirador in the National Parc - They are all standing by a steer drop "I'm not going up there"
 
Caceres (day 184 Spain)
Back in Spain again nice to be on decent roads for a change, it is a good drive to Caceres with some excellent tarmac, we arrived late on the camping aire and was full, so we parked adjacent on the coach park. We set up home and then walked into town up the narrow cobbled streets up to the large square, we spotted the White storks nesting in the church towers then headed for a local tapas bar to watch the bull fighting which is still very popular in this part of Spain. I don’t think we will be going to see a real bull fight it all seems a little one sided, I think the Christians had a better chance in the Roman Coliseum back in the day. Watching it on TV  is  mesmerizing with all the theatre and drama along with lots of blood. Caceres is in the image of a traditional Spanish town with narrow streets and balconied houses with their washing hanging out. Back at the van we met an English couple Bob & Patricia who let us share their connection to the free electric point, so free camping and free electric great, it’s amazing what lights your candle when you have been away for a few months.

Caceres

Caceres Old Town


Parque Nacional de Monfrague (day 186)
After a few days in Caceres we moved on toward Palencia but on the way we decided to stop in the Monfrague National Parc to view the Eagles and Vultures we had been told about, this point in the trip has been one of the highlights of the whole journey the photographs don’t do it justice, it’s the one time you wish you had a better camera or a decent pair of binoculars. As soon as we drove into the area of the national parc we were looking to the sky there were eagles soaring on the thermals everywhere we looked, I’ve never seen anything like it you can literally spend hours just staring up in the sky watching these fascinating birds flying, they make it look so easy, we also viewed them standing on the cliffs warming their wings before flight then they all take off together to go looking for a meal.


 'Twitching'
 
Eagles drying out there wings
They are really Eagles!

Palencia (day 189)
  Today we drove to Palencia we stopped for breakfast in Baños de Montemayor a pretty town with an alpine feel.  In Palencia we eventually found the Aire not before the Satnav took us thru a pedestrianized area first to a lot of head shaking from a bus driver.  The camp spot was very pleasant and we decided to go for a walk into town, we have still not got used to the siesta time where everywhere is shut for four hours “I’m not surprised Spain is almost bankrupt they are never open” Palencia is a typical working town situated along the river Carrion with a little known Cathederal, known for its snails - apparentley!.

Catching up with some old friends in Palencia


Donostia San Sebastian (day 191)
Today is a driving day, we drove 180km and arrived in San Sebastian at about lunchtime after an early start.  As we drove towards SS, we started to descend off the plains, it was a considerable drop down to the coast and felt abit like a roller coaster ride.  The weather improved quite a bit with temps of around 28ᵒ C and glorious sunshine. The camp spot was just behind the University with good parking places and clean facilities, after setting up we went for a walk, well it was siesta time again and we eventually found the beach, the promenade looks a little like an English Victorian seaside town. We walked to the old town which isn’t that old because the English burnt it down around 1813 and it wasn’t lager louts either. San Sebastian has a really relaxed feel about it and while we were there just outside the church we were treated to a demonstration of quality brass instruments.  Over the next couple of days we explored the town, walking along the promenade, chilled on the beach and went to Monte Urgull, where there is a mammoth figure of Christ and the Castillo de la Mota, it is a fair climb, but worth it for the views out to sea and back across the bay to the town.

The statute of Christ - looks like hes holding a cigarette!
Basilica de Santa Maria

Brass band in front of Church
Ol Town with the Monte Urgull in the background



Hondarriba (day 194)
Before heading off into France we decided to do a big shop, as Spain is a lot cheaper than France, so we put the nearest Lidl into the sat nav and drove off with our long shopping list.  After filling our baskets, we arrived at the checkout to “Bonjour”; we had foolishly driven into France to do our shopping, silly us.  Anyway we went back to Spain to visit Hondarriba, a beautiful walled town with a really good Parador, we did enquire about prices for the night, but decided it would really blow our budget. We stayed for lunch and then moved on to an aire at St Jean De Luz, for the night just over the French boarder.



The wall town of Hondarriba


Monday 2 April 2012

Next stop - Portugal


We arrived in Portugal early Monday morning, the clocks change to English time once we crossed the river border, jumping back an hour.  First quick stop was Castro Marin just over the border, a town with a castle in it, and a camping aire, we had a quick look around and moved onto Villa Reale De Santa Antonia.  A frontier town along the Rio Guadiana, that was re-built in the 17th Century after a tsunami.  It is a vibrant town, with plenty of shops and bars to keep us occupied considering the weather has been a little unsettled for the last few days.  We stayed at an aire situated on the old docklands area of the town.  First impressions; Portugal has a lovely traditional feel to it and has embraced the motor caravanning fraternity.

The Square at Villa Reale

Moving on we passed through Monte Gordo, then onto Manta Rota, a pretty little town on the coast with an aire, in summer a busy tourist resort, in winter very quiet – story goes that a couple of years ago the mayor ordered that all the motorhomes should be banned from the town, and then the local shopkeepers and restaurants’ were up in arms as they had lost their winter trade, and they covered up all the warning signs with plastic bags, the mayor rescinded his decision and set up an aire by the beach with all the facilities, and now it is full with many vans over the winter for only 4 euros a night and everyone is happy!!  After a couple of days we moved on to Santa Luzia on the outskirts of Tavira, a really pleasant village, on the estuary with cobbled streets and tiled walled houses, and a fresh fish market on the harbour, all the shops are hidden within the traditional narrow back streets of town.  Santa Luzia is "Capital do Polvo" in English "Octupus Capital, which is there local speciality, we sampled the local octupus at restuarant on the front.  We stayed here a couple of days, cycling to Tavira for a day.

Octupus Restaurant at Santa Luzia

Just a comment from Si “the driver” the Portuguese along with the Spaniards seemed to have taken their driven test with the “stevie wonder school of motoring”.

Olhoa Market

From Santa Luzia we travelled down the coast, to look at a stop in Olhoa, we found the camping stop, at the side of the Port, we decided to have a look at the town and discovered that there was a busy Saturday market on by the Estuary, we parked up and went to stock up on supplies. It was a busy and vibrant market with plenty of fruit and veg stalls, along with numerous ladies selling the shellfish and snails.  Si practiced his Portuguese on the old lady stall holders, they are more forgiving with our poor language skills we found a small café & ordered coffee and Portuguese tart to celebrate a sunny day, there hasn’t been so many since we came over the border at the beginning of April.

 
"I better check the change"!!


Coffee and Cake time

Gale Beach
We didn’t stay in Olhoa, but found a lovely aire near Gale beach, just passed Albuferia, and camped there for the Easter weekend.  The owners of the aire were very friendly and offered us an Easter cake, which had a hardboiled egg (still in its shell) inside it, nice gesture, but we ended up giving it to the birds.  During our stay we visited the beach several times and even ventured into the ocean, the first time since or trip began – it was freezing.

Gale Beach

Tradional wash House at Paderne

Leaving Gale Beach and saying our goodbyes to both old and new friends we had met, we drove a little inland to Paderne, a small village with a natural spring ‘font’ and a traditional washhouse – where the locals still come to wash their smalls, and we managed to capture this on camera, although she was a little shy!!


Si washing his "bigs" at the Padern wash-house

Over the next week, we followed the coastal road along the Algarve, stopping at Portimao, Praia de Rocha, Alvor, visiting one of the many Barragems at Bravour and continuing to  Lagos, Boca de Rio, Praia de Luz and finally arriving at the Sagres the most south westerly point of Europe. Over the past week the weather had been very changeable, sometimes grey, raining, then sunny, but always a strong wind, this is normal for this time of year.  Sagres is a surfing resort, but it was even too windy for the surfers. 


Beautiful Beach at Praia de Rocha

Praia de Luz

Barragem at Bravour


The Fort at Sagres - "it blow me away"

 Silves
After reaching the farthest point in the Algarve, we decided to do an about turn and travel inland for the remaining of our time in Portugal.  We arrived at Silves, a beautiful fortress town with an ancient Moorish castle dominating the skyline. Silves was known as the Kingdom of the Algarve, The area around Silves is the largest producer of Oranges in all of Portugal, most of the town was rebuilt after the great earthquake of 1755. Silves has a very relaxed and welcoming feel to it.  We camped in the car park next to the sports complex, by the river, after exploring the town; we went for a swim in the pool. 

Lovely Square in Silves


A square in the old town of Silves

     We have noticed that there are a lot of Storks nesting in Silves, on some very strange places and everywhere you look they have taken up residence even on the dead palm tree stumps. We have found out that the White Stork at one time was on the endangered list, but the numbers are back up, after electricity companies have made their pylons more Stork friendly, and they have decided to stay in Portugal for the winter instead of migrating to Africa.
Stork making its nest on an dead palm tree by the river

Stork by the local supermarket
Stork in the centre of the old town

 Before leaving Portugal, we wanted to try some of the traditional food and walked around town looking for a popular spot to eat one lunchtime. We came across a restaurant on the main road thru town opposite the old roman bridge called Churrasquiera, we had a very substantial meal of Peri peri chicken & chips, salad, bread, olives, cheese’s  and a pudding of orange segments with cinnamon and almonds along with a litre of white wine all for 19 euros (£17) for us  both. As you are eating, if you look up you can see the housemartins nesting above your head.

Si's favourite eatingestablishment (the dogs got no chance of scraps with Si around)

The next day we  went exploring on the bikes and came upon a campsite, a short distance from town, in a peaceful location, amongst the orange groves and along the salt water river that flows from Portimao to Silves, for only 5 euros including electric and showers, and an added bonus, there was a bar with free wifi, just down the road - a little three star gem.

Jo catching up on the blog, by the river at camping Silves

Alcoutim (day 177)
Leaving Silves we decided to make the longish journey to Castro Marim, this is the first town we stopped at on our arrival into Portugal.  Stopping here for lunch of Gazpacho & bread,  and then driving on up to an aire overlooking the town at Alcoutim, on the Rio Guadiana. We strolled down to the river and viewed the town on the Spanish side of Sanlucar de Guadiana. There is a little boat that goes across twice a day and we can hear the church bells chiming on the Spanish times being an hour later than Portugal. 
Sanlucar de Guadiana in Spain

 We passed through Mertola, on our way to Mino De Sao Dimingos, the aire was in a lovely position, laid out on a peninsular, by the side of the Barragam de Tapada Grande.   A really traditional Portuguese town close by, with what we have since found out could be apparently the oldest mine in the world dating back more than 4000 years.  Hot showers in the town square were great possibly a throwback from the mining days, but you did have to bring your own shower head or put your finger over the end to spray the water over yourself. One of our best places to stay so far (4 stars)


The town of Mertola




Our camp spot in Mino
Looking back onto the aire


Monsaraz (day 181)
We stopped overnight at Monsaraz, a fairy tale walled village with a delightful medieval atmosphere. It was originally fortified by the Knights Templar.  Looking out from the Castle you have amazing views of the surrounding landscapes. Looking into the castle grounds from the tower you can see the old bull ring.


A view of the lakes from Monsaraz

Castle at Monsaraz
Castelo De Vide (day 182)
We set off for Castelo de Vide along the planned road, it’s worth a note about the roads in Portugal at this point. The roads along the coast of the Algarve are just wide enough, but are in poor condition and the roads heading north along the river Guadiana are perfect for your little two seater sports car, but rubbish for a campervan with a passing articulated waggon you have to step off the black stuff and onto, no not the pavement they don’t exist just Roman style block paving, could even be from the Roman times sometimes they feel like a cobbled street with a lick of tarmac over the top, it becomes very expensive if you clip your mirror. I think the Portuguese roads could do with an extra inch either side….”.couldn’t we all”.  We stayed here a couple of days, parking behind the sports centre, it is a pretty town, with a well preserved old town, we watched the celebrations for day on the town square.

  

Old Town

Town Square


Barragem Povo (day 183)
We travelled to a Barragem (dam to a reservoir) we were told was a great place to camp, the weather wasn’t very good and it was I bit sodden but would be a great place to stay with better weather, so we travelled on deciding to make it a big journey today ending up in Caceres in Spain a total of 150km passing thru Nisa, Castelo de Vide, Marvao and then onto Caceres.  We had a wonderful time in Portugal despite the weather, as the Portuguese say "April is a month of a thousand tears"



Tuesday 27 March 2012

Seville


The GiraldaTower


Seville (Sevilla) (day 151)
On the way to Seville, we wild camped on a beach in Costa Ballena & watched the windsurfers in the breakers it looks very skilful. While we were sat there we were paid a visit from our friends the Guardia Civil, they must know us by now.
Gelves Marina on Rio Guadaira
Next morning we left early for Seville, the journey didn’t seem to take long on arrival I had a little confusion with the co-driver and the grid co-ordinates, although this time Jo decided to look at the map so we had half a chance of finding Gelves our destination. You have to be sharp the Seville, drivers take no prisoners, we only nearly crashed once so all good stuff.  Puerto Gelves is a small marina just outside Seville on the Rio Guadaira, it’s not the prettiest marina but it has everything you need and it’s close to the city, costing only €14.00/noche for a sea view, well almost.  The next day we took the bus into the city €1.40 each then went for mooch around. 
The weather was very warm and there was an overpowering smell of orange blossom from all the trees, which are everywhere, it looks like snow falling and has the smell of Jasmine and not the usual smell of a Spanish city.  Seville fells very clean and fresh, there are lots of students walking about looking cool & chilled along with the tourists.


Fabrica de Tabacos
The Cathedral and Reales Alcazarea Palace
We left the bus at the Rio Guadalquivir and headed into the old town, taking in the sights. Seville is an impressive city, full of palaces, churches, museums towers, city walls and plaza’s. Some of our favourites were:- The Antigua Fabrica de Tabacos, this was where the first tobacco came into Europe and is now the university and the Cathedral and its Giralda tower, which was the ancient minaret of the Almohad mosque and dates back to 1184.  Close by the Reales Alcazares palaces, dating back to the year 700, and the Plaza de Espana.  Around every corner there is another wonderful building.  We came upon another square with a couple of bodegas and decided to stop for a refreshing drink. After wondering around the small and atmospheric streets, we decided to head back to the van and relax by the river.  We headed back the following evening to sample the sherry and tapas, along with a little more sightseeing.


A typical Bodega off a square




At the Plaza de Espana " Little Venice"


After staying in Seville for four nights, we decided to make our way to Portugal, making a couple of stops on the way, firstly to the town of El Rocio, otherwise known as “cowboy town”. The town has no tarmac, only wide, sandy streets with a frontier like feel l to it, and apparently in the evening at the weekends the locals arrive on horseback wearing cowboy hats. It is situated at the edge of a natural park, alongside a large lake with Flamingos.  We decided to park there for the night (Friday), however as soon we pulled up and the heavens opened and it rained and rained, so much so that ‘roads’ turned into rivers, because there are no storm drains and we had to find somewhere save to stay. (we didn’t even have time to take any pictures). We drove 18 km down the road to Matalascanas, a ghost town this time of year and parked on a car park near the beach.
The next day we checked out a few wild camping spots in Mazagon, and spotted a particularly nice one by the Parador.  We passed the city of Huelva and arriving at El Rompido, parked up on the estuary; alongside other motorhomes, mainly Spanish owners enjoying the start of the Easter holidays ‘Semana Santa’ and walked into the village, a busy place with lots of fish restaurant’s and decided it would be a nice place to stay for a the weekend, spending Sunday sampling the local fare and later taking a walking along the estuary.

Outside our favourite restuarant in El Rompido
Our new friends Christine and Bernd
Wild Camping in El Rompido